Monday, June 8, 2009

Great Brows. Want em? Get em!

Brow Beauty 101:

How to TWEEZE a Brow.

Let a me start out by reminding you that a lady never "plucks" her brows, she tweezes. The word "pluck" brings to mind images of poor innocent chickens getting their feathers yanked out by Ma before supper time...speaking of chicken...I really want some nuggets...SMDH...ok!...back to the subject...
The process of hair removal by tweezing, if done right, shouldn't be a torture session because tweezed hair is GENTLY pulled out in the DIRECTION of hair growth, one by one, not plucked out all willy nilly.

WTPluck?! You are not a chicken...

The next thing to keep in mind is that your brows may never look like the ones pictures above...or the ones you see in a magazine...not to worry though, as the objective of this post is to help you achieve YOUR best brow shape.

What you'll need:

  1. A large mirror that is easy see your face with ample lighting. NOT a magnified mirror! I mean, you can use one if you really want, but I promise you'll be plucking all day...and then you'll move on to tweezing your nose hair, then to examining your pores, and picking at things that the average eye doesn't me I know...
  2. Witch hazel or other astringent and cotton balls (I believe in cleaning the area before and after)
  3. Slant tip tweezer
  4. Eyebrow trimmer, facial or cuticle scissors (basically small scissors)
  5. Clear brow gel Great for taming thinner brows (optional for finishing)
  6. Brow Wax Great for taming thicker brows (optional for finishing steps)
  7. White Eye Pencil (optional)
  8. Brow stencil (optional)


STEP 1: Assess what you have. This is probably the most important, yet most ignored step by both amateurs and professionals in brow shaping. You should then decide what type of shape you would like while remembering that you can only work with what is currently there. Too high or too skinny and you may be regretting it for up to 3 months! (If you're not sure of your best shape or afraid that you'll make a mistake, good suggestion is to have a trusted professional shape your brows first, that way you can just maintain the shape at home.)

STEP 2: Start by brushing the front of your brows up and then trimming a bit. Then brush the ends down and trim very slightly. Lastly brush your brows to lay in their natural growth direction. Try not to trim too much because you can always trim later.

STEP 3: Start by relaxing and looking straight into your mirror.

  • Place a straight edge object (eye pencil or a skinny makeup brush should work) on line A, from the outside of your nose to the corner of your eye, and lastly to the beginning of brow. When the straight edge is properly aligned, take your white pencil and trace a line at the beginning of your brow.

  • Next is line B, and as shown in the diagrams below, there are two ways to find this line. In the 1st diagram, the straight edge will line up horizontally to the first line, using the outside of your pupil as a guide. In figure 2, a diagonal line made with your straight edge starting again at the outside of your nose, using the outside of your pupil as your guide. Both methods should yield a line in the same place. Mark the area using your white eye pencil.

  • Line C is simply made by lining the straight edge with the outside of your nose and the end of your brow. Make a line (See figure 1&2)

  • Repeat steps for second brow, check for accuracy.
    Fig. 1. Fig. 2.

STEP 4: Using your lines as a guide keep in mind that the arch/shape should come from the bottom first. Your best bet is to remove the hair from this area first. (Fig. 3)

  • Option 1: Simply highlight the the area you would like to remove with your white pencil. (Fig. 4) After you highlight both sides, check for accuracy.
  • Option 2: Using the lines you create as a guide, highlight the hairs you would like to remove with the white pencil. (Fig. 4) Then fill in the area you would like to keep with Brow powder or pencil.

    Fig. 3

Fig. 4

STEP 5: Tweeze

  • Begin tweezing under your brow, starting at the end point, one hair at a time. Refer to figure 3. Pull the skin taut and grab hair close to the base and pull slowly in the direction of hair growth.
  • Work your way over to the beginning of the brow ensuring that you only remove what is necessary, so that you create a clean smooth line. Before removing a hair, pull it to the side and determine whether or not the overall brow will look good without it. Will removing it create a hole or space, if so, you may just need to trim it later.
  • Continue until all the hair you have decided to remove underneath is gone. Keep in mind that less is more.
  • Next, remove hair from above the brow just enough to create a clean look and to define the shape.
  • Evaluate your brows before tweezing the middle area. Are they even, too thick, too thin? Are you satisfied with the lines you created at the beginning of your brows?
  • Begin tweezing the middle of your brows, remembering not to tweeze too much off!

STEP 6: Finish and define

  • Looking into the mirror, brush your brow hairs to lay naturally, then align your scissors in a straight line and trim the top. You may also trim the ends as well being careful to not trim to much. The objective is to trim the hairs outside of your desired shape.
  • If there are any sparse areas and you may have gone too far you can always fill these areas in. Using your pencil, powder or both, fill in the bare areas in the beginning of your brow using light strokes, one at a time. Once you're done, use your brow brush to soften and blend the look. After a few tries, you will eventually learn the perfect technique for filling in your brows. (Make sure you pencil is very sharp so that you can make precise strokes, especially at the end of the brow.)
  • Use a cotton swab to soften a harsh brow and clean up any mistakes.
  • Lastly you can add a bit of brow gel or wax to style/hold your brows!

And Voila! Were done! I know that was VERY long but hopefully it will be helpful.

Let me know if you have any questions!


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